How to Maintain Chainmail for Longevity in Medieval Combat

Chainmail is built to withstand hard use, but it still needs regular care. Every bout exposes the links to sweat, grit, impact, moisture and friction. Without a simple maintenance routine, even a well-made hauberk can develop rust, sharp edges, broken links or uncomfortable areas that affect movement and safety.

For Australian fighters, the climate makes upkeep especially important. Humidity in Brisbane, salt air around Sydney or Perth, and rapid temperature changes in Melbourne can all encourage corrosion. Equipment transported between venues may also remain damp inside a kit bag long after training has finished.

Good maintenance begins with knowing what the mail is made from and how it has been finished. Mild steel, stainless steel, galvanised steel and aluminium each respond differently to cleaning products, abrasion and lubrication. A method that suits untreated steel may damage a protective coating or leave stainless rings unnecessarily greasy.

The aim is not to make armour look untouched. Training equipment will collect marks and surface wear. The aim is to keep every component sound, flexible, clean and safe to handle, while preserving the protection and appearance expected in historical medieval combat.

Identify The Metal And Construction

Start by checking the manufacturer’s information or asking the armourer what material and finish were used. Riveted mild-steel mail requires a different approach from stainless butted mail. Galvanised rings have a zinc coating that should not be aggressively scrubbed, while aluminium rings are light but more vulnerable to deformation and unsuitable cleaning chemicals.

Examine how each ring closes. Riveted links, solid rings and butted links have different failure points. A rivet head that is lifting, a butted ring with a widening gap, or a distorted ring can catch on an undergarment, expose skin or reduce the strength of the weave. Record the affected area so repairs can be made consistently rather than replacing random links.

Look closely at areas that receive repeated stress: the shoulders, armpits, elbows, cuffs, skirt edges and points where straps or buckles touch the mail. The neck opening deserves particular attention because sweat, rubbing and frequent handling can accelerate wear. A quick inspection before and after use is more effective than waiting for obvious damage.

If the armour is used under IMCF rules, maintenance should never involve alterations that compromise an approved protective system. Check the federation’s current equipment requirements before changing ring size, adding attachments or modifying coverage. A repair that seems convenient at home may affect compliance at an event.

Dry Mail Immediately After Use

After training or competition, take the hauberk out of its bag as soon as practical. Sweat contains salts that attract moisture and can produce corrosion even when the mail appears dry. Hang the armour in a well-ventilated place, spread it open and allow air to reach the inside as well as the outer surface.

Do not leave wet mail compressed in a plastic tub, closed sports bag or vehicle. This is particularly relevant after a hot event in Sydney or Brisbane, where condensation can form inside a sealed container. A breathable canvas or mesh storage bag is useful once the equipment is completely dry, but it should not be treated as a substitute for ventilation.

Use a clean towel to remove obvious moisture, especially around the collar, cuffs and dense folds. Avoid placing steel mail directly on a heater or using a high-temperature hair dryer. Excessive heat can damage nearby leather, loosen protective coatings and create uneven drying. Gentle airflow from a fan is safer.

If the armour has been exposed to seawater, mud or heavy perspiration, drying alone is not enough. Salt and grit must be removed before storage. Rinse the mail carefully with clean water when the material and finish allow it, then dry it thoroughly. For valuable or historically reproduced pieces, follow the maker’s instructions rather than applying a general household cleaning method.

Clean Dirt Without Removing Protection

For routine cleaning, shake the mail outdoors and brush away loose dust with a soft nylon brush. A clean, dry cloth can remove residue from flat surfaces, while a narrow brush helps reach packed dirt around rivets. Avoid wire brushes, abrasive pads and power tools. They can scratch the rings, expose untreated steel and create tiny rough points that catch fabric or skin.

If a deeper wash is needed, use lukewarm water and a small amount of mild detergent that is compatible with the metal. Work in manageable sections, moving the garment gently instead of twisting it sharply. Rinse away all detergent, because residue can attract dirt and hold moisture against the links.

Dry the armour immediately and completely after washing. Lay it over a sturdy rack or hang it from a broad support that will not strain one section of the weave. Turn it several times during drying. A damp patch hidden beneath overlapping rings can begin rusting before the outside feels wet.

Products containing bleach, strong acids, ammonia or harsh solvents should stay away from chainmail unless the manufacturer specifically approves them. Household rust removers can alter plating, discolour aluminium and weaken adjacent materials. If a coating is flaking or the mail has extensive corrosion, consult an experienced armourer before using chemical treatment.

Control Rust And Lubricate Carefully

A light protective film helps untreated steel resist corrosion. Once the mail is clean and dry, apply a small amount of suitable mineral oil, corrosion inhibitor or another product recommended for armour. The goal is a thin, even coating rather than a wet surface. Excess oil collects dust, stains clothing and can make the armour slippery when handled.

One practical method is to place dry mail in a strong container with a small quantity of oil and gently agitate it, allowing the links to rub against one another. This traditional approach can distribute lubricant through the weave, but it creates mess and is not suitable for every finish. Use a controlled application for galvanised, stainless or coated mail, and test an inconspicuous area first.

For fighters in coastal areas such as Perth, Adelaide or Sydney, inspect steel more often during humid or salty weather. Surface rust should be addressed while it is still light. Remove it gently with a non-abrasive method approved for the finish, then clean, dry and reapply protection. Deep pitting, fractured rings or rust around rivets should be assessed by a specialist.

Keep oil away from areas where it may transfer to protective padding or make a grip unsafe. After treatment, wipe the surface until it feels protected but not greasy. Mark the date of maintenance in a simple log, along with the product used and any repairs needed. A record is valuable when several pieces of armour are rotated through training.

Repair Damage Before It Spreads

A single damaged link can create a larger weak area because neighbouring rings carry the load when one fails. Inspect the mail on a flat, well-lit surface and compare suspicious sections with an undamaged part of the garment. Look for open butted rings, missing rivets, stretched shapes, sharp burrs and changes in the density of the weave.

Repairs should use the correct material, diameter, wire gauge and construction. Mixing a thin modern ring into a heavier riveted section may leave a snag or alter how force travels through the garment. A repair should match the original pattern as closely as possible, especially around the armpits, neck, wrists and other high-movement areas.

Basic link replacement may be manageable for a trained owner, but riveted repairs require appropriate tools and technique. Do not flatten rivets with improvised pliers if doing so could create a sharp projection or damage adjacent rings. When in doubt, send the garment to an armourer familiar with combat-grade equipment.

Before an event, check fasteners, closures and any leather or textile components attached to the mail. Replace worn straps and loose buckles before they fail under movement. Competitors can follow competition updates for event information and use that preparation time to complete equipment checks rather than leaving repairs until the final evening.

Store And Transport It Properly

Storage should keep mail dry, supported and easy to inspect. A broad hanger, padded rail or ventilated shelf is preferable to leaving a heavy hauberk in a heap. If the garment is folded, refold it occasionally so one crease does not carry all the weight. Avoid sealed containers unless the mail is fully dry and a suitable moisture-control system is being used.

Silica gel packs can help in a storage box, but they do not replace airflow and should be kept away from children and pets. Check them regularly, especially during wet periods. Do not store steel mail directly on concrete, in a damp garage corner or beside chemicals that release corrosive vapours.

Transport armour separately from muddy boots, wet gambesons and used towels. A ventilated equipment crate or tough fabric bag with a dry inner liner makes post-event unpacking easier. Once home, open every compartment rather than assuming that a dry-looking outer bag means the contents are dry.

Australian fighters also need to consider long travel distances and hot vehicles. A kit left in a closed car at a regional tournament can heat rapidly, while leather and fabric around the mail may retain perspiration. Remove the equipment from the vehicle as soon as possible and avoid placing it against hot metal surfaces.

Maintenance also protects the investment involved in the sport. Replacing rings, paying for specialist repairs and purchasing compliant equipment can add up quickly in the Australian market, where some armour and tools must be imported. Fighters seeking support for travel or equipment costs can review this sponsorship guide while keeping a clear record of equipment condition and upkeep.

Set a maintenance rhythm around actual use. Give mail a brief inspection after every session, perform a more thorough clean after muddy or wet events, and schedule a detailed repair check before major competitions. This routine takes far less time than restoring heavily rusted armour or replacing a neglected section.

Treat chainmail as safety equipment rather than a costume accessory. Dry it promptly, clean it gently, control corrosion, repair defects early and store it with ventilation. Add these habits to your training calendar, inspect your armour before the next bout, and keep every link ready for the demands of the arena.